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Negative Laser Etched Metal
by：Caodahai
2020-05-03
Steveastrouk needs to make a prototype for the shaft encoder and he asked me to experiment with removing paint on stainless steel with our laser cutting machine.
If successful, the void in the paint can be used to Electrolytic etching holes on the shaft encoder.
While not a manual that a lot of people can get immediately, hopefully you will find the end result attractive and some instructions on preparing and painting metal are also useful.
This instructable is expected to be an introduction to several projects I would like to release next month.
As the shaft encoder was a bit boring, I also etched a graphic with HiddenPower, the logo for gmjhowe and the hackaday logo, let me see the look of the solid image and give me a more interesting title image.
I think the results are great!
Surface treatment is the key.
In order for the paint to stick together as much as possible, the metal should be clean and remove all grease from it.
To make it easier for the paint to stick to it, the surface also needs to be rough.
I\'ll blow up all the metal pieces I want to play with first.
This is a rough treatment of them as described above and also to remove all crud and some grease.
Is there no bead explosive?
No problem, some very fine sand paper should do the job as well, but it will take you longer.
To remove any remaining grease, I sprayed a paper towel with acetone, wiped the side to be applied, and only kept the edges after careful cleaning.
Kitchen cleaners like Flash are enough, IPA (
Light Indian beer (non-alcoholic).
Next, heat the parts in the oven.
If the metal is preheated, the paint sticks better and the coating is better.
Once you like, spray the sheets in a well ventilated place.
After spraying these parts, the parts can be returned to the oven to dry.
It takes about 2 hours to dry in the oven, which helps to remove the dust while the dust is still wet.
Alternatively, place them in a dust-free place for 10 hours or until they are dry.
Once completely dry, stainless steel that can be etched and painted.
I used high power (98/100)
High etching speed (300/400)
And the step of 0. 1mm per scan.
These work better than the original settings I used, because when I run at a lower speed, the thinner pieces of metal are distorted.
The shaft encoder was designed in a CAD program called Alibre and then exported to the program that came with our laser cutting machine. dxf file.
Ran for 2 minutes this time.
The logo I etched is imported as jpeg and the program will sort out the rest.
Because the paint area to be removed is large, the etching time is slightly longer, 4 or 5 minutes.
Here are some photos of the finished etched paper.
Do you have a laser cutter?
Please post some pictures in the comments and it would be great to see it done in other colors or a few layers of color!
If successful, the void in the paint can be used to Electrolytic etching holes on the shaft encoder.
While not a manual that a lot of people can get immediately, hopefully you will find the end result attractive and some instructions on preparing and painting metal are also useful.
This instructable is expected to be an introduction to several projects I would like to release next month.
As the shaft encoder was a bit boring, I also etched a graphic with HiddenPower, the logo for gmjhowe and the hackaday logo, let me see the look of the solid image and give me a more interesting title image.
I think the results are great!
Surface treatment is the key.
In order for the paint to stick together as much as possible, the metal should be clean and remove all grease from it.
To make it easier for the paint to stick to it, the surface also needs to be rough.
I\'ll blow up all the metal pieces I want to play with first.
This is a rough treatment of them as described above and also to remove all crud and some grease.
Is there no bead explosive?
No problem, some very fine sand paper should do the job as well, but it will take you longer.
To remove any remaining grease, I sprayed a paper towel with acetone, wiped the side to be applied, and only kept the edges after careful cleaning.
Kitchen cleaners like Flash are enough, IPA (
Light Indian beer (non-alcoholic).
Next, heat the parts in the oven.
If the metal is preheated, the paint sticks better and the coating is better.
Once you like, spray the sheets in a well ventilated place.
After spraying these parts, the parts can be returned to the oven to dry.
It takes about 2 hours to dry in the oven, which helps to remove the dust while the dust is still wet.
Alternatively, place them in a dust-free place for 10 hours or until they are dry.
Once completely dry, stainless steel that can be etched and painted.
I used high power (98/100)
High etching speed (300/400)
And the step of 0. 1mm per scan.
These work better than the original settings I used, because when I run at a lower speed, the thinner pieces of metal are distorted.
The shaft encoder was designed in a CAD program called Alibre and then exported to the program that came with our laser cutting machine. dxf file.
Ran for 2 minutes this time.
The logo I etched is imported as jpeg and the program will sort out the rest.
Because the paint area to be removed is large, the etching time is slightly longer, 4 or 5 minutes.
Here are some photos of the finished etched paper.
Do you have a laser cutter?
Please post some pictures in the comments and it would be great to see it done in other colors or a few layers of color!
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